Day 1: drive from Granada to Córdoba was uneventful albeit I was still fuming that I scratched the car. I wanted to make sure that we had plenty of time to check in at our Cordoba airbnb and did not make any frivolous stops on the way there. We did make two stops: one to have lunch and the second one for some refreshments (read: me- a cold coke, kids- ice creams).

I sound like the broken record but I will never love the narrow streets of “casco histórico” (old town). Córdoba is similar to other cities. I definitely learned my lesson for the next trip – get a small(er) car. I had to recalculate the route multiple times to use wider, main streets as opposed to private roads. By the way, not everyone has the right to drive on these old town streets. You must have a reason, e.i. you are either a government or a delivery vehicle OR you live there (at a house or a hotel). Airbnb folks and hotel folks qualify because we kind of live in the old town albeit for a very short time.

Córdoba airbnb. The house is huge, old and has three floors. We are at the ground floor which feels like a maze. The owners are on the second floor. There is so much space! We even have a typical Cordovan patio, with potted plants, chairs, and colorful tiles. Actually, the whole house is decorated in a traditional Cordovan style: white walls, tile floor, original doors and windows. Tons of antique/refurbished furniture (or maybe they are just old, I don’t know). I am loving the energy of this new place. There is a washer and I didn’t have to do a scavenger hunt to find it! I did all the laundry that we managed to accumulate in Granada.

On day 1, after we unpacked and rested for a bit in our airbnb, we went out to get a feel for the city. We wandered into La Judería – the Jewish Quarter. Dinner sounded good at the moment and the kids were getting demanding so we quickly chose a place. It was lovely. The kids were not on their best behavior but I am starting to notice that in Spain people are less tight-up about it. There was a family next to us that also had kids and was loud so I started to relax. We got the oxtail stew and a Mozárabe salad.

I plan on making my own Mozárabe salad when I get back home. It is a perfect summer dish. Essentially, you cut up an orange, lay it down on the plate, drizzle it with balsamic glaze, and on top layer raisins, almonds, onion, black olives, a few avocado pieces, and lox fish. It was amazing!

Day 2. La mezquita-catedral de Córdoba + La Judería. Today was an important day where we had timed entry into one of the places that was not negotiable for me- the cathedral-mosque. I have taught about it for so long and now I got to visit it!

We were there early, at opening, that is why my pictures have very few people in them. This place, in fact, the whole city of Córdoba, amazes me with how different cultures and religions can co-exist peacefully. In the mosque-cathedral case, there was a small church in its place first and the mosque was build around it. In the pictures, you can see a mihrab to the left and a saint to the right, side-by-side.

After the visit to the cathedral-mosque, R went down for a nap, and L and I had some down time. In late afternoon, we went roaming around some more and ended up in the Jewish Quarter again! The streets take you back centuries and have hidden plazas. It was just lovely but then again- the heat. On our way back we were passing by a square and- what gift! – a fountain that is essentially a water play pad. The kids got entirely wet but by the time we arrived home- all dry!

Day 3. Viana palace + a pool! In the morning, before the heat set in, we slowly walked to the Viana palace. There we explored twelve (!!) Cordovan style patios. Cordova is famous for its lush flowers and patios and this palace was no exception. After the patios, we took a tour of the opulent inside, and felt we are moving across centuries, because it reflected the tastes of families who lives there from 1425 till 1980.

Found a local place for lunch and continued walking north to arrive at a pool. The pool was expensive (12 euros each, even R). But whatever, paid, and had about 4 hours of fun and we were the only foreigners! The kids loved it, and I was happy. Also invested in a taxi ride back- we were way too far from our airbnb. Six euros later and we were at the house. A wonderful day.

Day 4. Our last full day in Córdoba. Today we took it easy. I wanted to have an easy day where we shopped for some gifts for the kids’ aunties (3). Cordova is famous for its jewelers so we roamed the center for some gifts. And we were successful! I think my three friends and the kids’ aunties will absolutely love the meaningful pieces of jewelry we got each one of them. In each shop, we could actually talk to the artisan and get their philosophy and any symbolism behind each piece. I hate shopping but I love shopping like we did here.

We also sat in cafés, had coffee and juices, and walked some more. The kids found fountains and decided it was a good idea to bathe in them. I didn’t stop them. The locals didn’t care either, just pointed and smiled. Reached the Roman bridge and the Carahorra Tower. Saw a playground! #winwin Played, and took the cab back to our airbnb. Did our last load of laundry and said goodbye to Córdoba because tomorrow we are going to Zafra.

Córdoba Observations

1. We left the car in the garage for the whole four nights. Córdoba seemed tiny so we walked everywhere with an exception of taking a taxi to come back because we walked too far from home. I can feel the level of stress decreasing because I didn’t have to drive and park.
2. Our time is Córdoba was slower, with more mindful presence. Again, I could feel myself relax a bit more. Things like sitting in cafés, roaming the narrow streets and counting the street lights and window boxes, making contact with locals, and having ice creams everyday in whatever plaza we discovered. Bathing in fountains, chasing pigeons (kids). Sitting in a Cordovan patio with my coffee every morning and listening to church bells (me).
3. Córdoba seemed less commercial than Sevilla or Granada. Yes, there were shops but they were of smaller, more artisan nature (i.e. where we bought the jewelry). Nobody was saying “may I help you?” the minute you walked in the door. The shop owner usually just stayed in the back working on the pieces until you got their attention with perdón la molestia or permiso, and then they would give you their full attention. There was no pressure to buy which I loved.